What Are the Best Timbers to Make a Chopping Board Out Of?

We know first hand, there are so many timber options out there, it can feel overwhelming trying to work out which ones are actually good. Different people have very different opinions, especially online, and not all of them are based on experience.

Why you might trust us?

We’ve tried just about every timber you can imagine. Over more than a decade manufacturing cutting boards, we’ve seen how they wear, how they respond to oiling, how they react to water, and how they age with use. Some, like Tasmanian Oak, we used to use a lot, but found it a little too soft and porous for chopping boards. It tends to “fur up” when wet, leaving the surface rough and spiky, making for a horrible chopping experience. That said, we still love Tassie Oak for cheese and serving boards, where that isn’t an issue, however it is also a timber we are not foresting in a sustainable way.

What makes a really great board?

1. Hardness: Having a medium-to-high hardness (hard enough to withstand a beating, but not so hard it blunts knives)
2. Tight grain structure so they don't soak up water and hold nasties
3. Stays flat minimal warping wont crack, or splinter with normal use
4. Sustainably sourced and readily available
5. Non-toxic and food-safe (yes some timber leach toxins, or are highly toxic to cut/sand)
6. Look good: Have natural colour and grain that looks great on your bench or table

Timber Hardness

It is a highly controversial topic, woodworkers have been discussing for a long time, but for the most part, experienced board makers like us agree that somewhere in the range of 4-11kN (900-2500lfb for Americans) is the sweet sport for hardness.

Here is the hardness rating of many of the most popular timbers used in cutting boards:

💡 Fun fact: The best timbers for cutting boards are often the hardest to work with. Dense, durable hardwoods are more expensive to cut, sand, and finish properly, which is why many cheap imported boards use inferior, soft, easier-to-machine timbers.

Why Tight Grain Matters So Much

Timber grain packed tightly together, leaves fewer gaps for liquid to seep into. This naturally makes them more water-repellent and helps prevent bacterial growth, stains and warping. In contrast, timbers with open pores (like Oak or Ash) tend to absorb moisture, which can lead to lingering smells, and a higher risk of bacteria settling into the surface. A tight-grained board is not only smoother to cut on, it stays cleaner, safer, and easier to maintain over time.

💡 Fun fact: Tightly packed gain surfaces, are much more antibacterial that plastic boards. Meaning that contrary to what many believe, if your cutting meat on a plastic board, your putting yourself at risk.

Stable, Won't Splinter

Though maintenance and storage play a huge role in keeping a board flat and splinter-free, timber selection is where it all begins. The key factor is grain orientation, woods with naturally straight or interlocking grain structures are far more stable and less prone to warping or cracking. 

Combined this with a high density, tight grain and natural moisture resistance (which we already covered above) these timbers hold their shape over time and resist surface fibres lifting or fraying. That means no cupping, no sharp edges, and no unexpected movement. Just a board that stays smooth and solid, year after year.

Quick Mention Of Oily Timber

Though it can be a beneficial feature to have oily timber as it repels moisture, in most cases like with Australian tallowwood, and American Wenge or Rosewood it makes it near impossible to glue pieces together, so if it is not one slab (most cases) our experience is they wont last very long.

Timbers:

✅ Ideal Timbers for Cutting Boards

These timbers tick all the boxes for durability, hygiene, knife-friendliness and long-term performance.

• Spotted Gum (AU)
• Blackbutt (AU)
• Red Gum (AU)
• Hard Rock Maple (USA)
• Walnut (USA)
• Cherry (USA)
• Beach (EU)
• Myrtle (AU)
• Blackwood (AU)

⚠️ Less-Than-Ideal (But Still Okay)

These timbers are acceptable for occasional or light use—great for cheese boards, serving trays, or low-use prep boards.

• Tasmanian Oak (AU) - Can be splintery and trap food
  
• Teak (US) - Softer, too light
• Acacia (Asia) - too soft, highly variable quality, imported (it is very cheap)
• Camphor Laurel (AU) - Prone to cracking, strong aroma, food tainting, toxic to cut and sand (it is very cheap)
• Oak (EU) - Open pores, soaks up bacteria unless sealed

❌ Timbers to Avoid

These might be common in cheap boards or look good online, but they don’t hold up over time or may pose hygiene or durability issues.

• Bamboo (Asia) – Very hard, glued layers, cracks easily, bad for knives
• Ironbark (AU) – Too dense, dulls knives fast
• Birch (US, EU) - Though is a hardwood, is much too soft
• Poplar (EU, Asia) - Though its hardwood, way too soft 
• Any Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Cedar) – Dent, splinter, and absorb water

Final Thoughts

A good board isn’t just about looks—it’s about choosing the right timber from the start. That means balancing hardness, weight, hygiene, and sustainability. We've refined our timber choices over many years to make sure every board we produce feels good, lasts long, and looks beautiful on your bench top.